Geranium in Copenhagen, Denmark, is widely considered to be one of the world’s top restaurants. After all, it has three Michelin stars. But no matter how successful, the restaurant’s latest announcement shows there is always time and space for a new carte du jour. It’s closing its doors for the foreseeable future soon, but when Geranium reopens, it will do so with a meat-free menu.
The restaurant is owned by renowned Danish chef Rasmus Kofoed, and the menu change is a reflection of his personal dietary choices. At home, he hasn’t eaten meat for five years. “It’s natural,” the chef told Fine Dining Lovers. “I live privately that way and I want the menu to reflect my life, what I like, what I eat. Otherwise, it doesn’t feel authentic.”
He noted that it doesn’t feel like a big change, because Geranium previously served meat in small quantities. He also hastened to add that the eatery isn’t going vegan or vegetarian, as fish will still be on the menu.
Still, given the restaurant’s reputation, the decision to remove meat is impactful. It recently placed second on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, a ranking that was picked by a panel of more than 1,000 culinary experts. Its plant-based, autumnal Jerusalem artichoke leaves and pickled walnut dish was highlighted in the listing, which described Kofoed’s food as “pure art on a plate.”
Michelin-Starred plant-based food
It’s not the first time the chef has explored meatless cuisine. Last year, he opened up a temporary casual restaurant called Angelika, which only served plant-based dishes. (He says the pop-up is resting right now, but will return soon.) “We should inspire,” the chef continued. “That’s how I see my role. To inspire in a new direction.”
Kofoed isn’t alone. He joins a growing number of Michelin chefs who have distanced themselves from animal products. Earlier this year, renowned Monégasque chef Alain Ducasse opened vegetable-forward restaurant Sapid in Paris. And in the summer, Michelin-starred chef Josef Centeno chose to replace cheese with a vegan alternative at his Tex-Mex Los Angeles restaurant Bar Amá. And back in May, renowned three-Michelin Star New York restaurant Eleven Madison Park, helmed by award-winning chef Daniel Humm, went plant-based.
Geranium is set to reopen some time in 2022, but has not announced a date yet. “I like a challenge in my life,” said Kofoed. “My next challenge is to create amazing new dishes for the menu.”